Plugin tiddlers don't show their contents (or anything)

Not sure what I did, but when I try to browse plugins, the body of the tiddler is empty. At the end for example is the core plugin (.tc-tiddler-body is empty). If I edit, the contents do appear. Similarly, if I try to import, nothing is shown in the Import tiddler except the title, but if I edit the body I see the file that is to be imported. I guess this must be a view template thing, but can’t tell what it is or why the behavior.

I don’t see any errors in the devtools console. I tried to run through the upgrade tool and it didn’t help

My file is customized heavily, so starting with an empty TW again would be painful. Related to that, I thought I had backups enabled, but apparently not, how do I enable (where TW will save a copy of the file with the date on each save).

<div class="tc-tiddler-title"><div class="tc-titlebar"><span class="tc-tiddler-controls"><button class="tc-btn-invisible tc-btn-%24%3A%2Fcore%2Fui%2FButtons%2Fmore-tiddler-actions" title="More actions" aria-label="more" aria-expanded="false"><svg width="22pt" height="22pt" class="tc-image-down-arrow tc-image-button" viewBox="0 0 128 128"><path d="M64.177 100.069a7.889 7.889 0 01-5.6-2.316l-55.98-55.98a7.92 7.92 0 010-11.196c3.086-3.085 8.105-3.092 11.196 0l50.382 50.382 50.382-50.382a7.92 7.92 0 0111.195 0c3.086 3.086 3.092 8.104 0 11.196l-55.98 55.98a7.892 7.892 0 01-5.595 2.316z"></path></svg></button><div class=" tc-reveal" hidden="true"></div><button class="tc-btn-invisible tc-btn-%24%3A%2Fcore%2Fui%2FButtons%2Fedit" title="Edit this tiddler" aria-label="edit"><svg width="22pt" height="22pt" class="tc-image-edit-button tc-image-button" viewBox="0 0 128 128"><g fill-rule="evenodd"><path d="M95.627 10.059l-5.656 5.657 11.313 11.313 5.657-5.656-11.314-11.314zm5.657-5.657l1.966-1.966c3.123-3.122 8.194-3.129 11.319-.005 3.117 3.118 3.122 8.192-.005 11.32l-1.966 1.965-11.314-11.314zm-16.97 16.97l-60.25 60.25a8.12 8.12 0 00-.322.342c-.1.087-.198.179-.295.275-5.735 5.735-10.702 22.016-10.702 22.016s16.405-5.09 22.016-10.702c.095-.096.186-.193.272-.292a8.12 8.12 0 00.345-.325l60.25-60.25-11.314-11.313zM35.171 124.19c6.788-.577 13.898-2.272 23.689-5.348 1.825-.573 3.57-1.136 6.336-2.04 16-5.226 21.877-6.807 28.745-7.146 8.358-.413 13.854 2.13 17.58 8.699a4 4 0 006.959-3.946c-5.334-9.406-13.745-13.296-24.933-12.744-7.875.39-14.057 2.052-30.835 7.533-2.739.894-4.46 1.45-6.25 2.012-19.46 6.112-30.77 7.072-39.597 1.747a4 4 0 10-4.132 6.85c6.333 3.82 13.754 5.12 22.438 4.383z"></path></g></svg></button><button class="tc-btn-invisible tc-btn-%24%3A%2Fcore%2Fui%2FButtons%2Fclose-others" title="Close other tiddlers" aria-label="close others"><svg width="22pt" height="22pt" class="tc-image-close-others-button tc-image-button" viewBox="0 0 128 128"><path fill-rule="evenodd" d="M64 128c35.346 0 64-28.654 64-64 0-35.346-28.654-64-64-64C28.654 0 0 28.654 0 64c0 35.346 28.654 64 64 64zm0-16c26.51 0 48-21.49 48-48S90.51 16 64 16 16 37.49 16 64s21.49 48 48 48zm0-16c17.673 0 32-14.327 32-32 0-17.673-14.327-32-32-32-17.673 0-32 14.327-32 32 0 17.673 14.327 32 32 32zm0-16c8.837 0 16-7.163 16-16s-7.163-16-16-16-16 7.163-16 16 7.163 16 16 16z"></path></svg></button><button class="tc-btn-invisible tc-btn-%24%3A%2Fcore%2Fui%2FButtons%2Fclose" title="Close this tiddler" aria-label="close"><svg width="22pt" height="22pt" class="tc-image-close-button tc-image-button" viewBox="0 0 128 128"><path fill-rule="evenodd" d="M65.086 75.41l-50.113 50.113c-3.121 3.121-8.192 3.126-11.316.002-3.118-3.118-3.123-8.19.002-11.316l50.114-50.114L3.659 13.982C.538 10.86.533 5.79 3.657 2.666c3.118-3.118 8.19-3.123 11.316.002l50.113 50.114L115.2 2.668c3.121-3.121 8.192-3.126 11.316-.002 3.118 3.118 3.123 8.19-.002 11.316L76.4 64.095l50.114 50.114c3.121 3.121 3.126 8.192.002 11.316-3.118 3.118-8.19 3.123-11.316-.002L65.086 75.409z"></path></svg></button></span><span><span class="tc-tiddler-title-icon" style="fill:;"></span><h2 class="tc-title" title="This is a system tiddler"><span class="tc-system-title-prefix">$:/</span>core</h2></span></div><div class="tc-tiddler-info tc-popup-handle tc-reveal" hidden="true"></div></div>

Ended up being something in $:/plugins/mklauber/aliases, once I disabled it rendering is OK again.